Solsona

Solsona is a city of about 9,000 inhabitants roughly 70 mi (115 Km) or about two hours by car if you use toll roads or 2:30 hours if you don’t. Solsona is also the capital of the comarca (county) of the Solsonès in the province of Lleida, Catalonia, Spain.

There is evidence in the area that suggests that it was already inhabited in Neolithic times, perhaps as early as the year 3,000 BC, also in the nearby Castellvell de Solsona there are remains of an Iberian settlement from the 3rd century BC. The Romans built a small town that had hot springs and a temple, which they called Setelsis.

For about two centuries in the history of Solsona, this was border territory subject to periodic incursions by Muslims and Christians. In the ninth century written traces begin to appear about a settlement called Solsona, when the town grew up around the castle and monastery. The bishopric of Solsona was formally established in 1593, the year in which King Felipe II of Spain officially granted the settlement the title of city.

Over the centuries the area would see many changes and a lot of conflict, including an outbreak of Black Death in 1348 which wreaked havoc in the region leaving it almost uninhabited. The area would also be the scenario of the War of (Spanish) Succession, the War of Independence or Peninsular War, as well as several Civil Wars, regional conflicts and rebellions.

The industrial revolution did not affect Solsona too much: the rivers that had turned into engines of the industry flowed far away from it, the railway never came, and the automobile roads appeared late. This led to the slow growth of Solsona compared with other Catalan cities. Many families left the city for work in factories growing on the Llobregat and Cardener Rivers.

Solsona still maintains the same basic structure as when it was a walled city and also conserves its three original entrances; the gates called del Pont, del Castell and de Llobera. It has also maintained parts of the city wall at Vall Calent and the pou de gel (ice well), where ice used to be stored for conserving food.

The cultural heritage of Solsona has also been well preserved by its Diocesan and Comarcal (local district) museums and by the museum of Knives and Cutting Tools. Solsona also has a number of buildings of great architectural value. These include its Gothic style cathedral, which conserves the three apses and belfry of the original Romanesque temple that was consecrated in 1163.

When visiting the old center of Solsona take your time to stroll through its narrow streets and squares, such as the Plaça Sant Joan. You should look out for small details of craftsmanship on its torch holders, coats of arms and the carefully carved beam-ends of the eaves which have decorated the buildings for over 500 years.

Solsona is rich in folklore, with its dances of giants, cavallets (people dressed as small horses), eagle, dragon, mulassa (another dragon-like monster) and stick dance. All of these traditions have been conserved with the same essential character as when they were first established, which in most cases was in the 17th century. The “trabucaires” (blunderbuss carrying militia men) also have a firmly established place in the folklore of Solsona.

The Carnival of Solsona is one of the most important in Catalonia. It differs from the other carnivals celebrated in the territory in that the traditional fancy-dress disguises have been substituted by smocks of different colors, while the gegants bojos (crazy giants) and the penjada del ruc (hanging of the donkey) are unique and irreplaceable elements of the Carnival of Solsona.

Legend of the "Matarrucs" (Donkey Killers)

There are many mysteries and legends associated with Solsona, one of which is why the people of Solsona are known as the “Matarrucs” – the donkey killers.

One of the aforementioned historic beams has become the center of a legend in Solsona and has made it famous throughout the region. According to the legend, many years ago the townspeople decided to hoist a hungry donkey to the top of the bell tower so it could enjoy the fresh grass growing there.

Unfortunately for all involved, the method they employed was tying a rope around the donkey’s neck and hoisting it up. When the donkey almost reached the top, it let go of its bladder – a sign which was initially taken by the townspeople of the donkey’s joy at seeing the rare greens. Unfortunately, that was not the case. The donkey never got to savor the tasty grass.

Though this may seem horrific in out 21st Century eyes we should bear in mind that human history is filled with barbaric (to us) events. In commemoration, the townspeople hold a festival each year where they hoist a paper maché donkey up the tower from which a large dose of water is intermittently dispensed on passers-by via a hose.

The spectacle was televised one year and brought a number of animal activists to the area to protect the livestock from this abominable sport. They were assured that no live donkey was actually hurt during the ritual. Spain, in spite of being famous for bull fights in some regions and the “running of the bulls” in Pamplona, has pretty stringent animal rights laws and in many regions bull fighting has been outlawed and the arenas permanently closed.

Legend of the Black Madonna

The other claim to fame of the town is housed in the Cathedral of Santa Maria de Solsana. In the courtyard of the church is a deep well that was once used to hide religious icons and statues from invading enemies.

According to another legend, a boy was once playing in the courtyard and fell down the well. When he was finally lifted to safety he reported that he was not alone in the well. A female figure, he said, put her arms around him and comforted him until his rescue. The townspeople went down into the well and recovered a long-forgotten statue of a black Madonna. And not just any black Madonna.

This one is one of the most detailed and best preserved Madonnas in the world. It’s now housed in the church itself and remains an icon and evidence for the people of Solsona of the occurrence of a miracle.